This petite Hayes Valley delight is packed nightly and yet nobody seems to care about its stream of crowds. Simply decked with a light-and-dark color scheme along with distressed wood, the room features a laid-back style and rustic-chic farmhouse vibe. It books out far in advance, so arrive early to score a seat at the bar, where trendy types can be found devouring the Californian fare, infused with global ingredients and fine-dining precision.The hip staff is quick on their feet and may present diners with a salmon tostada slathered with tangy avocado purée and dots of salsa verde; or lobster chow mein garnished with charred corn and scallions. Advertised as dessert, cucumber sherbet with diced melon and watermelon granita is a perfect bite by itself.