Tucked into an alcove of the Parc 55 hotel, the space is no great shakes in the décor department, but when it comes to layered, vibrantly flavorful Thai cooking with a produce-driven northern California flair, Chef Pim Techamuanvivit is in a league of her own.The menu draws on tradition, but it’s a far cry from run-of-the-mill, with creative interpretations of classics as well as original offerings. A fragrant steamed curry mousse (hor mok), studded with tender mushrooms and served with crispy puffed rice cakes, is a tantalizing starter, and even a familiar dish like green curry is made memorable with slow-cooked rabbit sourced from a local farm. Expect bold, unapologetic flavors—certain dishes feature spice levels not for the faint of heart.