Considering its name, it may come as a surprise to learn that there are actually only four counter seats at this dark and moody restaurant on a leafy street. Those spots are very much the prized tickets here however, as not only do they give you a great view of the action, but they also allow you to order two exclusive extra courses. The eponymous chef roots his cooking in local producers, crafting dishes that shine a spotlight on the top-quality central ingredients like succulent Sussex chicken – even the wine list features some nearby growers. The service is personable and pleasingly relaxed.