Considering its name, it may come as a surprise to learn that there are actually only four counter seats at this dark and moody restaurant on a leafy street. Those spots are very much the prized tickets however, as they give you a great view of the action and you'll be served by the eponymous chef himself. His cooking is rooted in local suppliers (and some produce from the kitchen garden), resulting in dishes that shine a spotlight on top-quality central ingredients like succulent Sussex chicken – even the wine list features some nearby growers. The service is personable and pleasingly relaxed.