The owner was behind a legendary, now-shuttered restaurant and opened this much smaller spot, keeping some of the menu’s most popular items. The chef has decades of experience and his Hakkanese cooking is a pure delight. The signature salt-baked chicken uses birds from Qingyuan, dry-rubbed in a droolworthy secret seasoning blend. House-made pickles, and winter special, white radish pork balls, are also recommended.