Traditional, expertly crafted, market-fresh cuisine that lets the ingredient shout its name, such as lacquered sweetbread with peanuts and cauliflower. The à la carte lineup stars a range of pedigree Gallic classics such as homemade terrine, upside-down onion and chicory pie, calf’s head and even game in season. Cheerful service sets the tone in this handsome abode just a stone’s throw from the village church and square.