Loïc Thirion and Robin Van Habost are fanatical about pedigree Gallic cuisine. They invariably wave a cheerful greeting to diners from the open-plan kitchen of their contemporary establishment. First class produce, such as local game and mushrooms, is crafted into comfortingly familiar dishes rich in enticing aromas, to which the youthful chefs add a distinctive, personal and sometimes surprising touch. Feelgood French fare by fervent foodies.