Tomokazu Maehira’s interpretation of tempura does not begin with shrimp, but with the light, plain flavours of icefish and squid. Bundled broad beans and snow peas offer plumpness, while burdock and bamboo shoots bring a pleasing firmness, and sea urchins a creamy touch. The alternation of light and rich flavours and textures are well thought out. Maehira follows the three stages of mastery: the fundamentals, followed by breaking with tradition, then creating one’s own techniques.