The chef practises ‘cuisine that lingers in the soul’ that he learned at a ryotei, or traditional high-end Japanese restaurant, in Gifu Prefecture. Croquettes, a perennial favourite, are as seasonal as they are whimsical, stuffed with hair crab in spring and porcini mushrooms in autumn. Char-grilled fare includes meat as well as fish, enhancing satisfaction. Uniquely, Nishiazabu Otake serves game such as winter duck and Asian black bear, sent by hunters in Gifu. Definitely Japanese cuisine, yet free of convention.