The oldest house in Paris (1407) is named after a learned bourgeois who dabbled in alchemy, one Nicolas Flamel. In a pared-back tasteful interior set off by old stones and timber rafters, the high-flying kitchen brigade of Alan Geaam is hard at work crafting premium ingredients into appetising dishes in the zeitgeist: Plouguerneau crab, Baeri caviar; Racan pigeon, chard, buckwheat; confit of citrus fruits in a lime jelly.