In his restaurant, just a roll of the dice from the casino, Paul Courtaux doesn’t gamble with our appetites. He crafts vibrant, flavoursome cuisine, which cleverly shines the spotlight on regional produce, illustrated by frothy cold fish soup with an aïoli of cuttlefish and mussels, or a slice of Ségala veal simmered in lemon, basil, aubergines, tomatoes and parmesan… The splendid regional wine list deserves special mention, as does the charismatic welcome.