Unconventional Willem Hiele has set up shop in this architectural behemoth designed by Jacques Moeschal. Polders dominate De Keignaert nature reserve and are also a major feature of this imposing brutalist edifice. The 1960s-70s design further accentuates the minimalist character of this former private residence, in which chef Hiele invites you to sample his favourite dishes. He translates the harsh character of the sea and the countryside into dishes that bear his highly personal and delicate hallmark. Intense sauces, vinaigrettes, a smoky live fire focus (a charcoal fire always burns outdoors) and his creative streak showcase regional delicacies such as North Sea fish and veggies. Examples include hare from the polders cooked on the bone in bay leaf and paired with a truly exquisite sauce. Mature cherries, black trumpet mushrooms and a blackberry sorbet add depth and a subtle hot-and-cold balance. Sourdough bread with fat and fillets of hare add a final indulgent flourish to this culinary masterpiece. Chef Hiele has no need of surprising combinations to convince or entice his diners, although he may pair tart crunchy apples with goose belly. A fascinating experience that is even better if you spend a night in one of the six  guestrooms.