It may take a little digging to find this place, since there are no signs and you must ascend a steep flight of stairs, but once inside, you'll discover an ambitious Japanese restaurant where the kitchen deserves as much praise as the eight-seat sushi counter. The okimari menu begins with a clean and simple dish of ohitashi, or blanched romesco in a dashi broth, then continues with nanbanzuke, a lightly fried and intensely flavorful fish. Skillful sashimi and a selection of sushi follow, including horse mackerel brushed with sweet soy and a dot of yuzu, seared Japanese whitefish, okra  topped with bonito flakes and fried Japanese eggplant, which takes a humble ingredient and steals the show. Black sesame ice cream rounds out the meal.